Article de blog intéressant sur les textiles "quiltés", notamment la partie historique qui cite des pièces du MA, dont un sergé de laine méro (Vème) "quilté" au coton égyptien !
http://www.womenfolk.com/historyofquilts/lisaevans.htm
Cotton in the Middle Ages
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/articles/cotton.html
http://rosaliegilbert.com/fabricsandsewing.html
Cotton
It appears that clothing made of cotton or cotton/linen and cotton/silk blends accorded to specific time periods.
From the 7th to the 13th century, cotton and cotton/silk blends came out of the far east. Merchants in Egypt exported flax, dyes and cotton fibres. It is not unusual during that period to see references to clothing made entirely or partially of cotton. During the 13th century, according to Mazzaoui's publication "Italian Cotton Industry", the manufacture of cotton items in northern Italy rivalled wool in the numbers of workers it employed. The cloth produced was of medium weight and used for undergarments, bedding and summer clothing. Another source, Ibed, speaks of cotton clothing and blankets, flanelettes and quilted cottons which competed with coarse linens. It should be mentioned, however, that Italians did not produce luxury cotton fabrics, prints, tapestry weaves or brocades.
Frances and Joseph Gies, in their book Cathedral, Forge and Waterwheel, Technology and Invention in the Middle Ages discuss weaving of cotton and go on to say that during the 14th century, the use of cotton spread throughout the continent and Europe for use as coifs, veils, wimples, handkerchiefs, purses and clothing linings. There seems to be no reference to cotton clothing in England at these times.
Mansouri Tahar. Produits agricoles et commerce maritime en Ifrīqiya aux XIIe-XVe siècles. In: Médiévales, N°33, 1997. Cultures et nourritures de l'occident musulman. pp. 125-139.
doi : 10.3406/medi.1997.1399
url :
http://www.persee.fr/web/revues/home/prescrïpt/article/medi_0751-2708_1997_num_16_33_1399
Au passage, il est indiqué que le coton, importé notamment de l'actuelle Tunisie était régulièrement ré-exporté vers l'Italie...
Cotton is period ? Really ?
et, really, le coton, c'est "period"
http://des.kyhm.com/cotton
Cotton and Cotton Trade in the Middle Ages
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cibas/ciba64.html
un article assez long et étoffé sur le coton, son origine, le développement de sa culture en Europe méditerranéenne, ... mais aussi sur les "fustians" allemandes de la fin du MA/ début Renaissance
NB : si quelqu'un peut traduire "fustians", je suis preneuse.
Bibliography for Cotton in the Middle Ages (il y a 4 pages de références !)
http://home.roadrunner.com/~lkleovic/research/CottonBibliography.pdf
http://www.amisdesgeants.org/diaporama/costume_medieval.htm
La futaine était un tissu très courant en France depuis le début du 13ème siècle. Il s'agit d'un tissu de coton ou un mélange de coton et de chanvre ou de lin. Il était fabriqué à l'origine à Fustat, faubourg du Caire, ce qui explique son nom. Cette étoffe était utilisée pour fabriquer des vêtements de dessous ainsi que des doublures. Le nom de "bombazin" pouvait désigner un vêtement de dessous fait en futaine ou bien une futaine à deux envers.
Bibliography for Cotton in the Middle Ages
http://home.roadrunner.com/~lkleovic/research/CottonBibliographyAnnotated.pdf
un des intérêts de cette biblio est que chaque titre est accompagné d'un mini-résumé. C'est fort intéressant.
Un livre (très cher, hélas)
Le commerce du coton en Méditerranée à la fin du Moyen Age
Jong-Kuk Nam
http://brill.nl/product_id25656
ouvrez la page puis le sommaire, ça vaut quand même le coup.
Textiles of Islamic Spain
http://www.muslim-midwifery.net/stuff/Textiles_of_Islamic_Spain.doc
COTTON
Cotton was one of the new crops introduced into the Iberian peninsula by the Muslims. The improved Islamic irrigation techniques had a lot to do with this, but Watson suggests that development of a new species of cotton may possibly have increased the growing range of cotton in this time frame, as well. 14 In any case, "cotton cultivation was widespread in the tenth-century Islamic world, from the eastern provinces to North Africa and Iberia, including Egypt and Syria." 15
Watson says "Many places in the western part of Dar al-Islam [Islamic world] -- Egypt, the Maghrib, Spain, and Sicily -- also came to grow cotton and make cotton goods."; "cottons from Djerba, Tunis, and other parts of Ifriqiya [North Africa] were exported to Spain and Italy." Specifically, "In Spain, cotton cultivation is first mentioned in sources of the ninth and tenth centuries, and the manner of growing it is later described by the agronomists Abu al-Khair, Ibn Bassal, and Ibn al-`Awwam.(59) Although the early sources speak of its cultivation only in the south, notably in the Algarve and in the hinterland of Seville and Elvira, later sources state that it was also grown at Guadix and, more surprisingly, in Valencia and Majorca. Andalusian cottons were exported to other parts of Spain and to the cities of the North African coast.(60)" 16
I doubt that large quantities of cotton were exported from al-Andalus to other countries. Some Muslim geographers claim that it was: "Razi reported that the region of Seville produced 'a large quantity of cotton, which is exported to all regions and across the sea.' ... Ibn Ghalib went further, saying that by the late twelfth century Sevillian cotton was 'exported to all parts of the world.' " However, Constable was unable to find much reference to such exports, in the Geniza records or in Latin notarial contracts. Although the records for Andalusi trade are fragmentary, Constable did piece together quite a lot of evidence on many other imports and exports. 17
She says "Arabic geographers noted the success of cotton cultivation and referred to international trade in the product, but their reports must be weighed against the lack of references to Andalusi cotton traffic in other sources. Razi reported [see above]... Later geographers routinely echoed Razi's words ... Nevertheless, Andalusi cotton does not appear prominently in the Geniza, nor in Latin notarial contracts, nor are there many surviving examples of Andalusi cotton textiles. Although the consensus of geographers suggests that al-Andalus must have produced and exported some cotton, the lack of corroborating evidence points out both the difficulty of assessing the importance of cotton traffic and the potential for distortion in any one source." 18
In a twelfth-century quote (see WOOL below), the rich wear cotton, the poor wear wool.